Pool Leak Detection

The right TEAM to find and repair EXPENSIVE water loss issues!

Pool leak detection
How much water should a pool lose due to evaporation? Many factors contribute to normal water loss - tree coverage, wind, and water features are a few. Normal water loss of ¼” per day is acceptable during hot and windy days. However, an average sized backyard pool which loses 1” of water per day for a year equates to over 108,000 gallons of water plus chemicals. Not only is that costly, but it could be damaging the pool shell, causing deck movement, and if the pool is next to a house, leading to foundation issues.

We have the equipment and experience to locate and repair almost any pool leak. There are three phases of leak repair - test, locate, repair. Here are some of the ways our highly trained technicians determine if you pool is leaking:


Dye testing

    Our technicians will dive the pool and use a special dye to test any cracks and all pool shell penetrations such as lights, return fittings, and main drains.

Pressure testing

    Using specialized equipment, our technicians will isolate and pressurize the plumbing lines to determine if the lines will hold pressure. If the lines fail a pressure test, then the line has a break somewhere between the pool and the equipment.



    As the water and air leak from the pipes while the plumbing is under pressure, our technicians will listen for underground water leaks using specialized leak location tools. This can be a time consuming process as we have to find how the pool builder ran the plumbing lines, and not all builders follow common practices.


    If the leaks cannot be heard, due to depth of pipes, small size of leak, or many other reasons, we can inject a gas into the plumbing lines and by using specialized gas detecting devices, “smell” the gas where the leaking pipe is located.


    In some cases, we use micro cameras to search inside the pipe to visually find the location of the leak.


    If the leak is was found during dye testing, the repair may take several paths, from sealing a light conduit, to cutting and sealing or stapling cracks, to water stopping around penetrations. Some of these repairs also require draining the pool and patching plaster. In these cases, it is unlikely the patch will match the current pool surface.
    Once a leak has been located, accessing the plumbing to repair the leak is the final step. This means digging through grass/dirt, cutting out deck, or removing sections of the floor or wall of the pool. This too can be a time consuming process as we do not know what lies under the surface - how thick is the deck, is there rock under the dirt, etc.
    Once the repair has been implemented, a pressure test will be repeated to ensure no additional leaks exists. Often times, the worst leak is the first one found, once repaired, smaller leaks show up during the test.

RECOMMENDATION: Pools with auto fill systems which maintain a constant water level can mask or hide water loss. We recommend these systems be turned off for one to two days every quarter to verify no leaks exists.

Think you have a leak, here are some tests to confirm if and how much water you are losing before calling us out.

To Measure Basic Water Loss

    Fill the pool half way up the tile line and simply mark or place a piece of tape at the water level, monitor and measure daily for 2-3 days. If water loss is more than ¼” per day, you may have a leak. Perform a bucket test to determine if the loss is more than average for your pool.

Bucket test

    Place a shallow bucket (top of bucket should not be higher than pool deck) on the top step or a bench, fill the bucket to the same level as pool water, mark water level on pool tile and in bucket, monitor and measure daily. If the pool loses more than the bucket, then a leak is likely.

Static vs. Dynamic test

    Leave the equipment off (static) for 12-24 hours and measure the water loss. Then turn the equipment on (dynamic) and run without turning off for the same amount of time and measure the water loss. Take caution if water loss gets below skimmer to prevent pumps from taking in air. If the pool loses more water with the equipment on, it is likely a plumbing leak rather than a structural leak. If the water loss is greater with the equipment and you have any water features, turn those off and run the dynamic test again, then introduce one water feature at a time and run test again.