FAQs

Q?

Why is my pool cloudy?

A.

Pool water clarity is dependent on good filtration and the proper chemical levels. To troubleshoot cloudy water, check your filter pressure, pump circulation and the water chemistry. Even if these are correct, you may need a clarifier to help your filter catch very small particles.

Q?

How often should my pool water chemistry be tested?

A.

A public pool with many swimmers should be tested every hour and the water chemistry adjusted as needed. Test results be should be logged on a sheet in order to provide the pool operator with a comprehensive record of the pool’s chemical characteristics. Less busy pools should be tested daily to weekly, depending on bather load. Busy spas should be tested twice a day.

Q?

When should I backwash my filter or clean the cartridges?

A.

Backwash your sand or D.E. filter when the pressure gauge reads ten pounds higher than the ‘clean’ pressure. If the pressure doesn’t drop by 8-10 lbs after backwash, it’s time for a sand change or grid (or cartridge) cleaning.

Q?

The pressure gauge on the filter stays high after backwashing (or cleaning the cartridge).

A.

The return line valves are closed or partially closed, or the filter needs to have the media replaced or the cartridge or grids cleaned and decreased.

Q?

The pressure gauge on the filter is abnormally low.

A.

Low pressure indicates a blockage or suction leak before water enters the pump. The usual suspects are full skimmer baskets, full pump strainer basket, a leak at the suction side of the pump, the water level is too low and the skimmer is sucking air, the pump lid o-ring is damaged or missing, seated incorrectly or needs lubrication, or the pump impeller is clogged.

Q?

My pool seems to be losing water, what should I do?

A.

Pools lose up to half an inch daily due to evaporation and normal use. If you suspect a leak, go to our leak detection page for more information.

Q?

My pool light doesn’t work.

A.

The bulb may be burned out or the ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) has tripped and needs to be reset. If the GFCI trips again, call us! A dangerous situation may exist. The light’s timer or photocell may have failed or needs to be reset.

Q?

My pool pump hums but it won’t start.

A.

Please note that electrical repairs can be fatal if done improperly – always refer electrical repairs to a professional. The motor won’t spin for one of these reasons: The starting capacitor has failed. The start switch has failed or is fouled. A damaged pump seal has allowed water into the motor which has caused the bearings to fail. The stator or armature windings have burned out, or the pump impeller is bound up and can’t spin.

Q?

The pool equipment is leaking.

A.

Your pump or filter may have a tiny crack, a bad pump seal or an oring that is bad or not properly seated.

Q?

Why is water constantly running out my backwash line?

A.

This is usually a bad backwash valve gasket or one that is not properly seated.

Q?

Why does my circulation system lose prime when it’s turned off?

A.

There is a leak in the plumbing or equipment that lets air in when the pump is off. This can be from a cracked pipe, skimmer, or leaking oring.

Q?

My pool pump is very noisy, is this bad?

A.

Knocking is often caused by cavitation which occurs when the pump impeller forces dissolved gases out of solution. This causes high pressures which can damage your pump. Cavitation is the result of poor pump design or oversized pumps which try to move more water than is available. Suction leaks in the systems can contribute to cavitation by decreasing pump efficiency. Noise can also be from bad motor bearings.

Q?

Why isn’t my heater coming on?

A.

Safety switches ensure the heater won’t come on if water isn’t circulating through it. The problem may be with the heater or the circulation system. If your pool or spa has good circulation, but the heater still will not fire, call us for diagnosis and repair. Repairing heaters is not a do-it-yourself project.